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2010 » BACK
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December
2010/January 2011
That Was the Week That Was Beer Tom
Dalldorf |
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It all started innocently
enough, with a full week of events celebrating beer in
the City of Brotherly Love with the first Philadelphia
Beer Week in March 2008. Using the not undisputed moniker
“America’s Best Beer-Drinking City,”
coined by an undisputed champion of American beer, writer-journalist
Don “Joe Sixpack” Russell, the event spawned
a beery cornucopia of similar celebrations of all things
malty and hoppy that arose across America like hop shoots
from a rhizome after a spring rain.
The lesson was not lost on some of us who attended that
first fresh and flavorful Philly Beer Week, and our enthusiasm
proved infectious to our Bay Area beer brethren. San Francisco
Beer Week debuted less than a year later, in February
2009. Many more such events have followed. Fresh, quirky
craft beer and its message of flavorful moderation spread
to an amazing number of other cities, regions and whole
states! And this during a downturn in overall beer consumption,
with curiously consistent double-digit growth for the
craft segment. Beer week has gone as viral as a Lindsay
Lohan YouTube vid.
Beer weeks have happened in cities from Austin to Boston.
A short list includes Baltimore, Cleveland, Seattle, Chicago,
Sacramento, Syracuse, Atlanta, Houston, Raleigh, Milwaukee,
Detroit, Louisville, St. Louis, Charlotte and Madison.
Whole states have declared Craft Beer Week, including
Minnesota, Alabama, Ohio, Indiana, Colorado, Alaska, Mississippi
and the District of Columbia. Oregon requires an entire
MONTH to do justice to its vibrant and expanding beer
scene.
In this issue, read Brendon Hernández’s account
of San Diego Beer Week (still in progress as he wrote
it!) and Tomm Carroll’s first-person observations
on the recently completed L.A. Beer Week (and whose clever
title we pirated for this piece).
As beer weeks expand and develop, so does their ability
to contribute to beer culture and knowledge. In February
2011, Philly Beer Week will send one local brewer and
one area beer enthusiast to brew its collaboration beer
with world-renowned brewer Dirk Naudts of De Proef Brouwerij
in Belgium. The beer will be unveiled at Philly Beer Week
next June and distributed nationwide.
If your city, region or state has yet to be bit by the
beer week bug, get some like-minded beer lovers together
and make one happen. That’s all it took in the beginning,
and the phenomenon is becoming ubiquitous across the land.
If you don’t like your beer culture, go out and
make one of your own! |
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| LETTERS
TO THE EDITOR (December 2010/January 2011)
Dear Editor:
That magnificent product of well-reasoned argument
and logical conclusion, the U.S. Constitution,
was, as you most likely know, produced in a pub.
Its authors pounded not Bibles, but pints. Perhaps
this great country’s present partisan divide
might be bridged by us all spending a night or
two down at the pub instead of spending it in
front of cable TV. Forget tea parties. How about
a beer party? Let’s put the pub back in
the republic and restore civil dialogue.
In beer we trust.
A Beer Drinker and a Patriot,
Burlingame, California
Dear BD&P:
Indeed, you are correct. Our Constitution
was forged and fought over, fueled by a not inconsequential
quantity of ale in the taverns of Philadelphia
and elsewhere. Good of you to have brought that
up. Perhaps the Tea Party and Beer Party can yet
find parity and enlightenment over a friendly
pint. — Ed. |
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October/November
2010
Sierra Nevada at 30 Tom
Dalldorf |
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Ken Grossman started the Sierra
Nevada Brewing Company with partner Paul Camusi in the
tiny college town of Chico, Calif., in 1980. Your editor
was an early customer, buying kegs of Sierra Pale Ale
to serve at his wine bar in the slightly less tiny college
town of Hayward, Calif. I’ve had the unique opportunity
to have watched this amazing brewery grow from its singularly
humble beginnings to become the largest independently
owned brewery in America.
I have watched and admired Ken Grossman as he steered
his precarious enterprise through some challenging times
and economic hardships. Most owner-president types can
be found in the offices behind a phalanx of officious
tenders. Grossman eschews the trappings of corporate administration
and can most often be found in jeans and a Sierra-logoed
shirt, deep in the bowels of his brewery, wrench in hand,
working on or overseeing the installation of a new piece
of equipment, or tending to the maintenance of the elaborate
brewing systems with an unblinking eye toward production
efficiency, eco-harmony and enhanced quality of his life’s
passion: Sierra Nevada beer.
On September 3, 2010, I met with Ken Grossman at his brewery
for an interview on the occasion of the brewery’s
30th anniversary. The result is our featured piece in
this issue. We also had a video crew on hand to record
the interview. It can be seen in its entirety by
clicking here. A podcast audio version is also available.
If you were ever curious about the early days of Sierra
Nevada, here is some splendid source material direct from
the founder.
At a time when business ethics are suspect (if not nonexistent),
it is reassuring that the Sierra story reflects a 30-year
commitment to quality and honesty in its practices and
products. Congratulations to Sierra and Ken. And here’s
to the next 30 years! Beer
and Food: What a Good Idea!
Our other major focus this issue is our annual look at
the delicious topic of beer and food. Evaluating the subject
of quality craft beer without including its interaction
with food examines beer out of context. Most of our writers
in this issue have made an effort to spotlight beer and
food opportunities in their respective regions.
Longtime beer researcher, travel maven and unabashed foodie
Stephen Beaumont tackles the subject of beer dinners in
his essay “The Beer Dinner Comes of Age… Sort
Of.” Beaumont is not unaccustomed to raising his
considerable eyebrow at the efforts of the less inspired
while encouraging the activities of those who “get
it.” Chuck Cook reports on culinary developments
in Belgium with a story on Bistronoom. Tomm Carroll cites
the sights in L.A. with good food and beer, while Joshua
Lepley writes about beer and barbecue. Jack Curtin’s
“Atlantic Ale Trail” highlights the gastropub
phenom, while our new San Diego correspondent, Brandon
Hernández, writes about a fabulous beer dinner
at the Dreamcatcher Lounge at the Viejas Casino in Alpine,
Calif., appropriately featuring the hoppy creations of
the Alpine Beer Company.
This issue has a lot to chew on, soda speak, so in addition
to your usual pint to accompany your new issue of the
Celebrator, be prepared to pair that pint with
some tasty morsels that will complement the beer and your
annual Beer and Food issue! And spread that newly reinforced
enthusiasm for beer and food around, would you? |
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August/September
2010
Oregon Liquor Control Kills Homebrew Competitions
Tom Dalldorf |
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| States have ultimate control
over liquor laws within their borders. For the most part,
state laws are fair, or at least consistent. Oregon, the
land of amazing beer and wine, has had laws on the books
governing home beer- and wine-making for many years. Its
state fair has featured wine-making competitions for 30
years and beer-making competitions for nearly that long.
Recently, an inquiry on the part of a brewery hosting
a homebrew competition caused the Oregon Liquor Control
Commission (OLCC) to interpret its own administration
of the law as having been in error for 30 years. The
law in question is state law ORS 471.403, which reads,
“No person shall brew, ferment, distill, blend
or rectify any alcoholic liquor unless licensed so to
do by the Oregon Liquor Control Commission. However,
the Liquor Control Act does not apply to the making
or keeping of naturally fermented wines and fruit juices
or beer in the home, for home consumption and not for
sale.”
The slight omission of providing the transportation
of the products for judging or evaluation by clubs meant
that home beer- and wine-makers have been breaking the
law for 30 years and are no longer allowed to enter
state fairs or bring their prized offerings for appraisal
at club meetings. Clearly, the OLCC is at fault for
not enforcing its own laws or for not administratively
rendering its rules consistent with 30 years of common
practice. The Oregon Legislature will have to take up
the challenge of rewriting the laws, but the OLCC could
have staid its ruling, allowing common usage to continue
pending the legislative reinterpretation.
Enforcing bad law is simply not acceptable. And in
this case, going against 30 years of common practice
(reflected in the laws of many other states) is absurd.
As Dickens’s woeful Mr. Bumble said in Oliver
Twist, “The law, sir, is an ass.” |
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June/July
2010
Is 2010 the Year of the Beer? Tom
Dalldorf |
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| With Beer Weeks taking place
in two major cities (Seattle and Chicago) as we go to
press, our U.S. Congress took time out from more pressing
issues like war in the Middle East, the worst recession
in modern history and an equally calamitous oil spill
near the still-recovering New Orleans Gulf Coast to declare
American Craft Beer Week. Craft beer has come a long way
and continues its phenomenal growth despite political
and economic challenges.
“Now, therefore, be it Resolved, That the House
of Representatives… encourages beer-lovers of
the United States to celebrate American Craft Beer Week
through events at microbreweries, brewpubs, and beer
stores across the United States to appreciate the accomplishments
of craft brewers...” states HR 1297. What next?
Beer served at Burger King? Funny you should ask.
Belly up to the Whopper Bar and order a beer with your
“have it your way” Whopper. The fast-food
chain with the creepy king with a really large head
(he don’t know Jack) is headed for distinction
as the first of its ilk to offer a pint of brew with
its menu. The first one will open in Miami Beach, targeting
thirsty tourists hitting the scantily clad South Beach
beach, according to a Burger King announcement. The
chain is also considering other tourist meccas like
Times Square, Las Vegas and Los Angeles.
And what kind of beer will they be offering, you may
well ask? Apparently, you won’t get to have your
beer “your way” like your Whopper. The plan,
according to the company, is to start out with domestic
brands like Miller and Budweiser. Other brands may be
considered down the road. Color my place mat disappointed.
“You can have America’s favorite beers
with America’s favorite burger,” said Chuck
Fallon, Burger King’s North America honcho. Oh
yeah? Well, did America’s favorite beers get a
House resolution? Huh?
The BK beers will be served in specially designed aluminum
bottles. A BK beer will sell for $4.25 alone; a Whopper
combo with a beer will run $7.99, which is about $2
more than the same meal with a soda.
Reaction to the beer ’n burger merger has been
as mixed as a hamburger. “There’s already
enough trouble without Burger King selling beer,”
one person was quoted as saying. “You don’t
take your kids to a bar.” No, you don’t.
But you do take your kid to a restaurant, and restaurants
typically serve beer, and the children of America seem
none the worse for that.
Please note that Burger King is not the first major
chain to sell beer. Starbucks already sells beer and
wine at select cafés. Welcome the Beerista. Outside
the U.S., such beer and food parings are more common.
Burger King partisans in beer-loving Germany and Venezuela
have been enjoying a cold one with their Whoppers and
fries for years.
If BK doesn’t want to face BK, the beer move
could be a good one. Serving a Sierra Nevada or a regional
favorite would be a smart move, too. And installing
draught lines would be much more profitable. You don’t
see Mountain Dew served in an aluminum bottle, now do
you?
Let’s raise a beer to the Year of the Beer! |
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April/May
2010
Craft Beer & Keystone Cops Tom
Dalldorf |
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Craft
Beer Growth Continues
Despite a depressingly sour economic climate, a sweet
spot is the continued growth of the craft beer segment
of the alcoholic beverage industry. The Brewers Association
in Boulder, Colorado, the trade association that keeps
track of production statistics for U.S. breweries (among
other things), recently released data from 2009 showing
that craft brewers had a sales dollar increase of some
10.3% and a volume (production) increase of 7.2% over
2008. This continued growth amounts to 613,992 more barrels
of quality craft beer (some 8.5 million cases) over the
previous year!
Big-guy industrial lager producers saw beer production
decline by approximately 5 million barrels in 2009.
Clearly, in these tough economic times, people are drinking
less — but they are drinking better beer.
Another statistic that bodes well for the future is
the total number of craft (small) breweries in the U.S.
That stat grew from 1,485 in 2008 to 1,542 in 2009,
and together craft brewers produced 9,115,635 barrels
of craft beer, up from 8,501,713 barrels in 2008.
Our craft brewers are the small, mostly family-owned
breweries and brewpubs that we have become accustomed
to in our neighborhoods in cities and towns across the
country. Such breweries not only provide fresh, unique
beer for our local enjoyment; they also provide jobs
for thousands, and many pay into health insurance as
well. Naturally, this positive growth segment is a target
for governmental agencies looking for new revenue sources
to offset their bad judgment or legendary lack of fiscal
planning. This is known as the ritual killing of the
goose that laid the golden egg.
Our small brewers are not vast profit centers, unlike
the major U.S. banks that our government was so quick
to rescue with our rapidly diminishing Treasury. Increased
taxes and fees for the craft brewing industry will surely
stifle growth and lead to even more unemployment. In
addition, your access to fresh, flavorful beer will
be diminished if these new taxes and fees, being discussed
at the local, state and federal levels in our country,
come to fruition.
Let your governmental agencies know that you are concerned
about the viability of your local brewers. Continue
to support them by buying their products, but also be
willing to step up when unfair and inequitable taxes
and fees are discussed as a way for governmental bodies
to pad their coffers and right imagined social evils.
Tea Party Movement? Hell, how about the Beer Party Movement!
As the great newsman Scoop Nisker often says, “If
you don’t like the news, go out and make some
of your own.”
Keystone Cops in Keystone State
A phalanx of Philly fuzz descended on some neighborhood
bars and taverns a few weeks ago. The police weren’t
after illicit drugs or illegal aliens or online perverts.
No, friend, they were after beer. Not illegal homemade
hooch, mind you, but well-known imported and domestic
beer. Stolen beer? Nope. They were after beer that wasn’t
on the state liquor authorities’ (PLCB) list of
beer that could be sold in Pennsylvania. Some of the
beer actually WAS on the list, but the coppers, clearly
out of their element, just didn’t recognize the
difference between, say, “Duvel Beer” and
“Duvel Belgian Golden Ale.” We are not making
this up.
As ace reporter Don “Joe Sixpack” Russell
wrote in the Philadelphia Daily News, “Although
the bar owners had bought the beer legally from licensed
Pennsylvania distributors and had paid all the necessary
taxes, the police claimed that nobody had registered
the precise names of the beers with the state Liquor
Control Board — a process that requires the brewers
or their importers to pay a $75 registration fee for
each product they want to sell in Pennsylvania.”
Naturally, the cops seized hundreds of bottles of very
expensive beer for its unregisteredness. The beer is
now in State Police custody at an undisclosed location.
(We’ll bet it’s warm there.) Nice work,
Philly police. And this was all based on an alleged
complaint from someone the State Police refused to identify.
Only in America. Well, maybe Joe McCarthy’s America.
The terrorists are probably laughing.
Industry sources complain that brand registration is
typical of the onerous regulations that make selling
beer in Pennsylvania difficult. For example, while it
is the responsibility of the brewer or importer to submit
the necessary paperwork and registration fee, it is
the tavern or restaurant licensee who may be liable
for selling unregistered brands, according to the news
report.
“Registration is further complicated by the growth
of under-the-radar one-offs: unique, limited-production,
highly sought-after draft beers that appear briefly
— perhaps as quickly as an hour — on tavern
taps. While they pay the necessary state and federal
taxes, breweries sometimes do not bother to register
the brands because they are produced in extremely small
amounts,” according to Russell.
Guess what one of the brands was that the Pennsylvania
State Police reportedly sought during its raid: Pliny
the Younger, made only once a year by the Russian River
Brewing Company in California. Wow, maybe the state
cops have good taste after all.
Without eternal vigilance… |
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February/March
2010
Where is YOUR Beer Week? Tom
Dalldorf |
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| The most recent manifestation
of the burgeoning Beer Week phenomenon just took place
in Alaska. Prompted by its iconic Great Alaskan Beer &
Barley Wine Festival, now in its 14th year, the local
beer community expanded the week of the festival to include
beer dinners, a trade show, meet the brewers nights at
local beer venues and tours and tastings from local breweries
all taking place prior to the festival. Welcome Anchorage
Beer Week!
Beginning with a stupendous effort by our beer-loving
brothers in Philadelphia over two years ago, the Beer
Week concept is taking off across America celebrating
local and regional brewing and good beer places as well
as world-class imports in fine dining establishments.
Beer loving professionals in San Francisco took their
inspiration from the Philly effort and formed SF Beer
Week now about to launch its second run in Northern
California February 5–14. San Diego just completed
its debut effort in late fall of 2009 with spectacular
results. Los Angeles also hosted its first effort in
the nation’s largest metropolitan expanse.
Portland, Ore., rated the number one beer city in America
by this magazine two years ago, has expanded its Beer
Week to Beer Month to include all the many events taking
place across Oregon! Add to that efforts from Baltimore,
Cleveland and Syracuse, and you can see that the concept
is no longer an isolated beery blast of enthusiasm from
a few locals but is truly a nation-wide evolution of
regional good beer celebrations. And more are planned.
So, what’s YOUR beer community doing? Where are
the Beer Weeks in the rest of our great beer-loving
country? This is truly a grass roots revolution comprised
of beer industry professionals, beer lovers and homebrewers
alike. Reach out to other beer geeks in your area and
make some noise for the good beer movement. You could
be a founding member of your own Beer Week with a little
dedication and persistence. Pick a time when brewers
and on-premise venues are not that busy. Get your local
media on board promoting the good beer message. Let
the wine guys who get the majority of media exposure
with their simple fruit-based beverage know that beer
has earned its place at the table.
Year two for San Francisco Beer Week looks to be huge
and the promotion and participation for it are amazing.
In just a few years we could be celebrating Beer Weeks
all over this great beer-loving land of ours. And you
could be a major part in its origins. Make it happen! |
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| LETTERS
TO THE EDITOR (February/March 2010) Dear
Editor:
I found your site while doing some research for
my own. My craft beer appreciation site is pretty
young but it’s also pretty terrific! Take
a peek (brewdorktimes.com).
If you like what you see, I’d sure love
to have a spot on your “Notable beer blogs
and sites” list. Prost!
Daniel Lux, aka “The Brew Dork”
(Via e-mail)
Dear Daniel:
OK, you got us. We get a lot of bloggers wanting
to be listed on our website, and we try to check
out each of them to see if they truly have something
to offer our readers. We think you not only do,
but you also have a great hook: “Brew Dork
Times” indeed! Good one! Look for some marginally
“terrific” Celebrator trinket in the
mail to you for your efforts. And thanks for promoting
good beer! — Ed. |
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| Tom Dalldorf is publisher
and editor of the Celebrator Beer News. |
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