| Those of you who have been around
the Rocky Mountain craft beer scene for any length of time realize
that brewing is a fluid business in more ways than one. Over
the years, we’ve seen dozens of craft brewing operations
come and go.
A handful of successful breweries — through some combination
of product popularity, visibility, company vibe, business
savvy and sheer longevity — have played a part in defining
the region’s beer culture. That’s why Flying Dog
Brewery’s mid-December announcement that its entire
brewing operations were moving to Frederick, Md., felt a bit
like the family pooch had run away and been adopted by a new
family with a nicer yard. The canine-themed company has been
a fixture in the Colorado beer scene since Flying Dog opened
its doors in Aspen in 1990.
The Frederick facility already produces 70 percent of the
Flying Dog beers, has twice the bottling capacity of the Denver
facility and has the capability to produce a wider range of
recipes. President Eric Warner cited financial reasons for
the move and also said that the company’s business operations
would remain largely unaffected, with accounting, sales, marketing
and other administrative functions remaining in Denver.
| Even in the depths of winter, local beer folk have much
to look forward to. |
Craft brewers are an innovative lot. Often, innovation means
taking old or established ideas and applying them in new ways.
A perfect example is Oskar Blues’s remarkable foray
into canning, which began a half-decade ago. To call the venture
a success would be a gross understatement. Oskar’s sold
its first cans of Dale’s Pale Ale in November 2002.
Since then, the brewery’s production has jumped from
700 barrels annually to 14,000 barrels in 2007, proving to
naysayers that aluminum cans could have appeal beyond the
world of yellow beer. The Lyons, Colo., brewpub commemorated
the fifth anniversary of its micro-canning operation in several
ways. In late 2007, cans of Ten FIDY Imperial Stout were released
in four-packs to select stores in Colorado and beyond. The
viscous 10% winter seasonal pours inky-black from its metallic
container and bombards the palate with a barrage of sweet
and roasted malt flavors.
In early December, the Cajun-themed brewpub threw an anniversary
party featuring a buffet of beer-can chicken (of course),
barbecued beef, boiled crawfish and, for amusement, mechanical
bull riding. The event also served as the official rollout
of yet another packaging experiment: 5-liter (1.3-gallon)
mini-kegs of Dale's Pale Ale.
Up in Idaho Springs, Tommyknocker Brewery has also borrowed
technology from the world of macro-brewing with interesting
results. Last September, the mountain brewery installed a
tunnel pasteurizer to increase the stability and shelf life
of several specialty beers, including their Cocoa Porter Winter
Warmer, Maple Nut Brown Ale and Tundrabeary Ale. Surprisingly,
the pasteurizing process seems to brighten the flavors of
the adjunct ingredients used in these beers. In a side-by-side
comparison of pasteurized and unpasteurized samples of the
Cocoa Porter, several colleagues and I found the pasteurized
version to be noticeably smoother with a more pronounced and
clearly defined cocoa quality.
Several Colorado breweries were among a handful of U.S. breweries
receiving honors in a pair of international beer competitions.
The European Beer Star competition took place at the Brau
Beviale trade show in Nuremberg, Germany, late last year.
The competition included 575 entries from breweries in 58
countries. Denver’s Great Divide Brewing Company took
home a silver medal for Titan IPA and a second silver for
Oak-Aged Yeti Imperial Stout. In the same competition, Longmont’s
Left Hand Brewery earned a silver medal for its tasty Milk
Stout.
At the 2007 Stockholm Beer and Whisky Festival, Great Divide
won another silver medal for Saint Bridget’s Porter
while Fort Collins’s Odell Brewing Company received
a bronze medal for its 5 Barrel Pale Ale.
Even in the depths of winter, local beer folk have much to
look forward to. On Saturday, February 23, Denver’s
Wynkoop Brewing Company will host the finals of the 2008 Beerdrinker
of the Year competition. The event promises great drama, copious
chuckles and Wynkoop beer specials, including a lavender-infused
ale produced by Head Brewer Thomas Larsen and Diane Catanzaro,
the 2007 Beerdrinker of the Year.
While we endure what are typically the snowiest months of
the year, a host of hearty offerings should help ward off
cabin fever. Longmont’s Pumphouse Brewery is planning
a February release of both its Backdraft Imperial Stout (10%)
and Firestone Double White, a Belgian ale brewed with fresh
blood orange peel, coriander and other secret spices.
At nearby Left Hand Brewing Company, early March will see
the release of Chainsaw Strong Ale, which is described as
a double sawtooth. The 9% ale will be available in 750-ml
silk-screened Belgian beer bottles and kegs.
March will also usher in Collaboration Not Litigation Ale
from Avery Brewing. This 9% Belgian strong ale is a blending
of Avery’s Salvation Ale and the like-named Salvation
from California’s Russian River Brewing Company. Another
March arrival from Avery will be Maharaja Imperial India Pale
Ale. The 9.8% hop-head’s elixir will pack a pungent
punch of over 100 IBUs.
If you’re headed up to ski country, check out Malt
Mountain Scotch Ale at Wolf Rock Brewing at Keystone Resort.
The beer is named for its massive malt bill, which includes
a dozen different malts.
Down in Telluride, visitors to Smuggler’s Brew Pub
can indulge in Imperial San Juan SkyHOP, big brother of the
popular San Juan SkyHOP. The 10.4% American double red ale
is fermented with two yeast strains and hopped to a jaw-dropping
124 IBUs.
Rumors are afloat that the folks at Boulder’s Mountain
Sun/Southern Sun brewpubs are planning a Denver pub venture
around 17th Avenue, near City Park. Stay tuned for further
details.
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